Diffmount construction
Page As I have had so many requests, Ive
taken some more photos and got some measurements so that you can make your
own diff mount
Above is the finished article - I
am going to gold-zinc plate the bolts, washers and the
top bracket. . .mainly for looks, but also a little for corrosion
resistance
All the parts laid out
Click on the pics for a
bigger view |
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I cut 2 tubes that the
rubbers fit snugly into. These two tubes were then cut into the
original mount and tig welded into place. Tube
dimensions: Outside diameter - 40mm; Inside diameter -
33mm; Length - 60mm |
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A shot of the rubbers used
and the spacer tube that runs through the tube in the pic
above. Rubber dimensions: Head of rubber - 38mm
dia.; Shaft of rubber - 33mm dia; Hole through rubber - 16mm dia.
Overall length of rubber - 36mm; Length of rubber that is inserted
into tube 30mm. These rubbers came out of a Nissan Urvan (Australian
model) and are the rear shackle rubbers. approx cost is $5 each
(4). Tube Dimensions: Overall length - 71mm;
Outside diameter - 16mm; Inside diameter - 12mm. The tube was
stainless, but normal steel would be OK |
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The bolt that runs through
the spacer tube is 107mm long and is high tensile steel. (M12 1.75
HT 8.8) |
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Now the tricky bit - This is
the bracket that bolts to the diff. I made this one out of 2 stuffed
original Nissan diff mounts, just burnt the rubber off, cut them in
half and welded them together. The tricky bit is
that you have to make sure that the bolts that come down from above
(see below) are in the right place, as these are the ones that go
through the diff. If you make this piece up first,
and bolt it to the diff (in place) then fit your standard diff mount
up, you will be able to mark where your tubes have to be cut in or
alternatively, bolt a standard rubber mount onto the standard
bracket and mark and measure all the positions and holes. (I used
the latter method).
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The above was the most
fiddly bit, take your time, or you'll end up with something that
doesn't quite fit. TIP: before
you weld the bracket, bolt a big bit of steel to it to stop it from
twisting or bending when it is welded.
I used the original bits because they
have the nice dish that clears the bottom of the diff, but it could
quite easily be fabricated from some 3 or 4mm plate. The nuts were
welded to the bracket so that the worst that could happen is that
you lose a bolt. |
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I hope this works for you. .
. drop me a line if it does at simon_zed@hotmail.com Id
like to hear how you went. Cheers - Simon
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