Diffmount construction Page
As I have had so many requests, Ive taken some more photos and got some measurements so that you can make your own diff mount

difmount.JPG (13765 bytes)

Above is the finished article - I am going to gold-zinc plate the bolts,
washers and the top bracket. . .mainly for looks, but also a little for corrosion resistance

All the parts laid out
Click on the pics for a bigger view
All the bits
I cut 2 tubes that the rubbers fit snugly into. These two tubes were then cut into the original mount and tig welded into place.
Tube dimensions: Outside diameter - 40mm; Inside diameter - 33mm; Length - 60mm
Centre section
A shot of the rubbers used and the spacer tube that runs through the tube in the pic above.
Rubber dimensions: Head of rubber - 38mm dia.; Shaft of rubber - 33mm dia; Hole through rubber - 16mm dia. Overall length of rubber - 36mm; Length of rubber that is inserted into tube 30mm. These rubbers came out of a Nissan Urvan (Australian model) and are the rear shackle rubbers. approx cost is $5 each (4).
Tube Dimensions: Overall length - 71mm; Outside diameter - 16mm; Inside diameter - 12mm. The tube was stainless, but normal steel would be OK
Spacer and rubber
The bolt that runs through the spacer tube is 107mm long and is high tensile steel. (M12 1.75 HT 8.8) Spacer, rubber and bolt
Now the tricky bit - This is the bracket that bolts to the diff. I made this one out of 2 stuffed original Nissan diff mounts, just burnt the rubber off, cut them in half and welded them together.
The tricky bit is that you have to make sure that the bolts that come down from above (see below) are in the right place, as these are the ones that go through the diff.
If you make this piece up first, and bolt it to the diff (in place) then fit your standard diff mount up, you will be able to mark where your tubes have to be cut in or alternatively, bolt a standard rubber mount onto the standard bracket and mark and measure all the positions and holes. (I used the latter method).

 

Bracket
The above was the most fiddly bit, take your time, or you'll end up with something that doesn't quite fit.
TIP: before you weld the bracket, bolt a big bit of steel to it to stop it from twisting or bending when it is welded.

I used the original bits because they have the nice dish that clears the bottom of the diff, but it could quite easily be fabricated from some 3 or 4mm plate. The nuts were welded to the bracket so that the worst that could happen is that you lose a bolt.

Bracket and bolts
I hope this works for you. . . drop me a line if it does at simon_zed@hotmail.com Id like to hear how you went. Cheers - Simon

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