Suspension Techniques Sway Bar Upgrade
FRONT
Here is the
1-1/8" front sway bar. It is much bigger than the stock one. More importantly,
it works better.
Changing the front sway bar is one of the most noticeable
improvements you can make to the suspension.
Here is the stock bar. (Front splash pan removed)
To
remove the sway bar, simply disassemble both end links at the control arms then
unbolt the U clamps at the frame bushing mounting points... easy.
Old vs. New. You can see the difference in end
links and frame bushings. Here are the subtle points:
Rust was hiding under this plate.
Yup, the metal was very fatigued and bent when removing.
The tired bushings also were worse for wear and tear.
The new bushings and bar must be greased and placed on
the sway bar before mounting. Placing them 25" on center while
aligning on
bar helps.
Note, the dip in the bar is on the lower side, and the split in
the new bushing is oriented towards the rear of the car.
Once the new frame bushing plates are bolted in place
(loosely), connect the sway bar (loosely) .
Next, install the end links (loosely).
Notes:
nut
cup washer (down)
bushing (down)
sway bar
bushing (up)
cup washer (up)
spacer
cup washer (down)
bushing (down)
control arm
bushing (up)
cup washer (up)
bolt head
There is a cup built into the control arm.
For final assembly:
Here is the disappointing problem with the Suspension
Techniques Sway Bar kits.....end links... the spacer is too short and the tie
rod hits the
sway bar.
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
REAR
The 7/8" rear
sway bar is bigger.... but it is more difficult to install and has less
noticeable effect when driving compared to the front sway bar.
Here is a view of the rear sway bars end link.
Here is a view of the frame bushing. It is coated with
anti-seize (and some kind of rubberized under coating).
Wire brushing the
nut helps in disassembly.
A view of a the lower end link to rear control arm
connection. It is coated with anti-seize and is ready for removal.
Once the end links are removed, the frame bushings can be
removed. Their lower plate has a tab on the front and a bolt hole on the
back.
The plate functions as a lever that sandwiches the bushing and bar in
place.
Removing the bar requires lowering the exhaust ~ 3"-4" and some
Houdini tricks (no comments on this part except "Good Luck!")
Old vs. New. Note the notch in the red frame bushing.
There is a corresponding "bump" in the frame mount.
Important: When installing
the frame bushing with the notch up and forward, there are actually two possible
orientations which are different.
The easiest way
to get the orientation is to install the bushing with the slit towards the
rear of the car.
Now the fun begins! If you just enjoyed
removing the old bar and getting the new one in place, you will certainly
enjoy this:
Remember, the bushing's notch is front and top while the slit is middle rear
Next, install the end links.
Notes:
nut
cup washer (down)
bushing (down)
sway bar
bushing (up)
cup washer (up)
spacer
cup washer (down)
bushing (down)
control arm
bushing (up)
cup washer (up)
bolt head
Final Assembly:
Now get out there and cut up some roads!!!!!! :)