Built Tuff With Chev Stuff always better to have a gun and not need it than need it and not have it VIN's Starting Sept 1, 197O, the cars were classified 1971 vehicles Bought V8 kit 5-13-99 $325.OO Sold Extra V8 Kit..................$2OO.OO Bought 71Z 6-13-99....$25O.OO Sold Extra parts to Dan............$ 75.OO Changed title 6-14-99 $ 1O.OO Sold Brace to Dennis.(steel).......$ 5O.OO Jason Webber Sold Brace to Dan....(Alum)........$ 7O.OO 632-7687 or 829-9983 Sold Brace to Mark...(Alum)........$ 7O.OO Bought 71Z parts car Sold Brace to Glenn..(Alum)........$ 7O.OO 7-14-99...............$1OO.OO Sold Diff mount to Jimmy...........$ 35.OO Towed home free 74Z Sold Brace and risers to Jim.......$1OO.OO 9-19-99 Sold Jute backing to Curtis........$ 34.OO Fans and other Sold 74Z overrider to Paul.........$ 4O.OO Z parts U-Pull-It.....$ 6O.OO Sold Tin shield to Ruben...........$ 45.OO Fuel pump and motor Sold 71 R18O front mount to Brian..$ 2O.OO mounts from CSK.......$ 86.OO Sold 74 front bumper to Paul.......$15O.OO Bought 35O............$ 2O.OO Sold 74 armrests to Ryan...........$ 3O.OO Bought struts.........$115.OO Sold Jute to Bill..................$ 34.OO Bought Wheels bumpers 2 grills Sold 71 Z and rollbar to Drew.....$16OO.OO 73 over rider CV shaft and Sold brace to Noel...(Alum)........$ 7O.OO flange from All-Z.....$555.OO Sold inside mirror to Joshua.......$ 2O.OO Sold overrider and jute to Brent...$ 52.OO Sold 73 overrider to Jim...........$ 45.OO Bought 73 overrider...$ 1O.OO Sold Armrests to Randy.............$ 3O.OO Bought Gentex Mirror..$175.OO Sold outer door handle to Ryan.....$ 1O.OO Bought Dimming Mirror.$ 1O.OO Sold 73 overrider to Dan Darnell...$ 45.OO Bought Rear over rider from MSA...................$ 75.OO Bought Lokar engine dip stick from Zigs.............$ 4O.OO TOTAL.....$2895.OO Bought headers........$26O.OO Bought Gaskets Note #1 2 arm rests, 2 R view morrors and Timing chain......$ 65.OO Hood vent, 3 marker lites Parts from mustache bar, F&R diff supports motor sports..........$31O.OO R side 1/2 shaft, diff strap Hood..................$ 3O.OO both diff side axles Toyota brake Calipers.$ 25.OO Dorman tail gate strut Note #2 3 arm rests. mustache bar and from CSK..............$ 2O.OO F&R diff supports diff flange Bought mirror at flea market........$ 1.5O Bought aluminum intake Manifold ......................$ 35.OO All metal body filler.$ 55.OO POR-15 Primer.........$ 35.OO Spreaders radiator additive spot putty............$ 15.OO Urethane snubber, tie rod boots and mustache bar bushings from www.suspension.com....$ 4O.OO Tranny Pan, Air Cleaner, Headers www.summitracing.com..$155.OO Grade 8 Bolts.........$ 1O.OO LSD from All Z East...$5OO.OO R2OO Diff Gasket CSK..$ 5.OO R2OO Axles U-Pull-it..$ 1O.OO 26OZ arm rests........$ 7.OO 4-8MM X 3Omm long grade 8 bolts and nuts for driveline yoke ......................$ 3.5O 2-78 hood vents.......$ 1O.OO White face gauge kit..$ 2O.OO B&M Mega Shifter......$15O.OO Fuel pump switch......$ 11.OO 4 Michelan tires......$292.OO 14 8 lugnuts $4.9Oea..$ 68.6O #4O224-R467O 454 starter...........$2OO.OO 2 starter bolts.......$ 7.OO Diff & tranny seals...$ 35.OO Head lights, axles, moldings and risers from U-Pull-It ......................$ 73.5O Carpet Kit from 1aauto www.1aauto.com........$155.OO 26OZ bumper mounts....$ 23.OO Cam & lifters 35O/35O.$ 89.OO Tranny drain plug.....$ 3.OO Engine Dipstick.......$ 6.OO Lokar tranny dipstick.$ 58.OO Diff lube 2 qts.......$ 9.OO Equa-torque...........$ 5.OO Rings, Rod bearings and soft plugs ......................$ 8O.OO SS bolts for fuel pump block off plate.............$ 2.OO Main bearings.........$ 31.35 Urethane mustache bar bushings from baxters..........$ 25.OO Chrome dist hold down.$ 5.OO Chrome valve covers, timing cover & air cleaner from summit .....................$ 5O.OO Urethane strut rod bushings .....................$ 2O.OO Roll Bar.............$ 185.OO Parts from U-Pull-It in Salem see note #1.$ 66.OO Parts from U-Pull-It in Salem see note #2.$ 31.5O Bought 71 from Josh..$11OO.OO Bought 2 cans paint..$ 5.OO Bought unilite.......$ 1O5.OO Bought 35O from Kurt.$ 5O.OO bought filter for unilite from Radio Shack.....$ 2O.OO Bought pan set.......$ 18.OO Front bumper and all related parts from Nissan....$ 487.49 Trico refills 43-18O.$ 6.OO Valvecover hold downs from CSK.............$ 6.OO ---------------------$6921.44 some aircraft grade:titanium:scandium:unobtainium bolts in his drive shaft The "rear differential mount member installation nut" torque is 7.5 to 9.5 kg-m or 54.2 to 68.7 ft-lbs. I'd go the same with either type of bushing... Turbo Buick V6 is from '87 3.8L V6 Grand National "BOARD-splash" part no. 78410-E4100. Engine splash pan Qpads Sound deadener pads from 3M By the way, I have a little known Classic Agreed Upon Value Policy with State Farm. It costs me about $40 for 6 months, and they will pay me $9K if my Z is totalled brazing using Silicon Bronze and Phosphor Bronze filler not the pure brass stuff used in metal shop class. http://chris.kellnet.com/chambers/speedo_gears.htm This will tell you how many teeth your speedo driven gear needs. Next, go to the GM parts counter and order the appropriate gear based on these GM part numbers (these gears are less than $4): 18 teeth #3987918 19 teeth #3987919 20 teeth #3987920 21 teeth #3987921 22 teeth #3987922 To convert (mm) to (in) multiply by .03937. 79 ZX 2+2 has the R2OO 3.36 rear end gears 4-speed to be exact HEADLIGHT RELAY Siemens #VF4-15F11 $6 from Radar Battery Condition. The battery needs to be fully charged to do this test.... Battery voltage after 2 minutes with the engine off and headlights on ... Test with everything off... 12.65 volts is 100% charge... 12.45 volts is 50% charge... 12.25 volts is 25% charge... Factory Fog Lights 2615O-E41OO 95 mazda miata power steering appears to fit the Z Measure the thickness, of the swaybars. The stock ones are 18 or 20mm thick. The stiffness goes up by the fourth power of the thickness. I.e. you measure your new bar to be 1" or 25.4mm and your old bar was 20mm. Then 25.4/20 = 1.27 your new bar is 1.27 times thicker than the old one. The stiffness is 1.27 raised to the 4'th power is 2.6 times stiffer. If the new bar was 1 1/8 " or 28.575mm it would be 4.17 times as stiff as the 20mm bar. Coil Over Rates 175-2OO f/r for a L6 2OO-225 f/r for a v8 SPRINGS front springs are different in the 71 right spring is longer. Rear springs are the same. FRONT SPRINGS 71 240 wire size----------.425 spring length------15 1/4" Right side, 14 3/4" Left side Spring Rate-------- FRONT SPRINGS 2+2 Wire Size----------.458 spring Length------15 3/8" Both the same Spring Rate--------145lb REAR SPRINGS 71 240 Wire Size----------.452 Spring Length------15" Both sides the same Spring Rate--------13Olb To check spring rate put the spring holder on (easier for the press to put even pressure) and put pressure till you hit like 50lbs on your scale then set the inch dial to 1,2,or what ever then from the 50lbs point apply one dial inch worth of pressure and what your scale reads will be your spring rate ! Nismo sells two types of euro springs, A Stage I that has 101F/112R lb./inch and a Stage II that has 122F/140R lb./inch. Stock is 83F/103.6R lb./in. Stage I: 54010-E4107 240Z Spring / RF (101 lb/in) 1ea 54010-E4106 240Z Spring / LF (101 lb/in) 1ea 55020-E4201 240Z Spring / R (112 lb/in) 2ea Stage II : 54010-E8100 240Z Spring / RF (122 lb/in) 1ea 54010-E8101 240Z Spring / LF (122 lb/in) 1ea 55020-E8100 240Z Spring / R (140 lb/in) 2ea Eibach springs tighter wound coils at back with wider spaced coils down and others in front wider spaced coils down. Stock ride height appears to be 25-27" from the ground to the center of the wheel well. ENERGY SUSPENSION URETHANE BUSHINGS mustache bar 7.11O2G $25 T&C rod (strut) rebound bumpers go in flat up point down R18O 12mm mustache bar mounting studs R2OO 14mm mustache bar mounting studs 54 to 69 foot pounds for R2OO Mustache Bar nuts the outside diameter of the 240 -early 260 strut cartridge is 2.02 inch and the late 260-280 strut is 2.185 in Wheel lug pattern 4 X 4 1/2" 12MM X 1.25mm stud The specs for the 1970-89 Z wheel studs are a 12mm X 1.25mm thread and a knurl diameter of 12.87mm. The early Z cars used a 32mm length, but the 280Z probably has the longer 36mm studs. The 280ZX's and Z31's had a 4Omm long stud and the 24OSX used a 42mm one. The longest ones (that I am aware of) that will fit the hubs can be found on the rear of the Nissan Quest Van. It is 47mm long. NISMO Part No. 40222-RS015 Nissan Long Studs Outer axle flange nut for 24OZ-28OZ PN 43262-W12O2 (28OZX) Stub axle thread size pinion nut also 20mm x 1.5mm This seal is suppose fit the outer ZXT CV flange with out modification CR(chicago rawhide) 15857.. R200 Nissan part numbers: Rear cover gasket : 38320-N3111 Pinion seal : 38189-N3100 Side seals (2) : 38342-N3100 Stock diff mount : 55415-N4301 The Datsun 28OZXT CV's will stand 20 degree deflections without any clearancing and around 25 with clearancing. (Do not clearance the cup area, cut the body "thicker" part.) The wheel bearing grease seal is smaller on the ZXT (by about .080") A pressed on a bushing about .040" thick on to the outboard stub axle at the seal interface. CV Bolts fo Turbo 1/2 shafts bolts:39606-W1202 nuts: 01223-00041 washers:08915-13810 Difficult Viscous diff? Hey, I run the 3.7 Viscous unit in my 240Z! Difficult, not very! Just several hours of looking through shaft books and whala....front shaft from AMC Eagle 6cyl AWD! Friction plates for the R2OO LSD part # 38433-N9OOO Tail Gate strut Dorman # C072-430 (Schucks) $19.99 Mighty Lift # 95019 (from Autozone) $15.99 Stant locking gas cap #1O-599 Door locks from Autozone $2O (NLA) Lockworks #DL47O1O (has spring to turn back key) Door Locks fron Autozone $3O part #DL47OOO Door locks from autozone For a 81 nissan maxima (They Fit) 12MM X 1.25pitch wheel studs .745 shank Standard is .685 12MM X 1.25pitch R2OO LSD 3OOZX Turbo 1OMM X 1.25pitch R2OO open Differential flange (drive line) You need 5/16x24x1 5/8. Then cut them down to 1 1/8" NEAPCO 2-2-1819 this part fits the R2OO LSD round flange NEAPCO 2-2-899-1 this part fits the stock R2OO flange NEAPCO half shaft HD U joint 1-OO29-BF (HD Brute Force) $13 PEP Boys Spicer half shaft HD U joint 15-15O5X (SPR AB7 on yoke) Strut boots called strut cushions #141577 $1O Car Quest 86 200 SX axels(the CV joints are the same.) the CV`s are the came as the 280ZXT CV's but need to be swapped to the 280ZXT sticks Z31 NA CV, Right and then Left side, Extended, 17-5/8 ", 17-1/8 " compressed, 16-3/4, 16-1/2, stubs are 3-7/8's and 3-1/2" long all measurements right then left side.... R2OO Axles right side longer. R2OO Mustache bar behind bolts R18O Mustache bar ahead of bolts R2OO front mount has the small side towards rear/wide side towards front 7O-71 25 spline outer axle 73-78 27 spline outer axle Heater blower motor and squirl cage is replaced with the one from a 88 or so HONDA civic CRX. The Honda is a direct bolt in swap Spindle Pin 5554O-N37O1 Threads are 12mm X 1.25 Right side 1/2 shaft (U-Jount) is longer than the left side Left side 1/2 shaft (CV) stick is 1/2" shorter that right side use left side stick in right side CV jointed 280zx turbo half shafts The right side axle is 1/2" longer (3-1/2" between boots) and the stub that is inserted into the differential is 5/16" longer (3-13/16") than the driver's side shaft. T&C Rod 2 1/4" between washers OD R2OO Differential grease 2 1/2 pints for non LSD Nissan LSD Finned cover R2OO holds 4 1/2 pints 14Owt Red Line synthetic for . Drive shaft length bottom yoke in to tranny then measure C to C U-joint then substract 3/4" Front edge of the driveshaft loop must be within 6" of the front U-joint. There is a handy little flat spot under the Z car that places the loop at 5 inches from the front U-joint 70-78Z uses the JATCO 3N71B 3-spd automatic Stock oil pressure sending unit is 1/8" BSPT Britsh Standard Pipe Thread The actual size is 1/8-27BSPT, which means it's nearly identical to the SAE pipe thread of 1/8-28NPT Summits has the autometer adapter, its 1/8" NPT to 1/8" BSPT..... http://www.baypneumatics.com p/n (1/8 x 1/8 F3HG) British Standard Pipe Tapered (BSPT) or British Standard Parallel Pipe (BSPP) Front bumper over rider 7O-71 36 1/2" C to C 72 73 3O 1/4" C to C 74 71 front bumper brackets are mounted correctly when the bolt holes at the body are towards the top of the bracket rubber bumper end caps for the rear bumper bar 62693-E4101 & 62692-E4101 GP Sorensen injector connecter w/ pigtails #800-9213 Vehicle cross reference for the Taurus fan and where to get a new one if a person doesn't want to go the Salvage yard route: http://www.autobodypartswholesale.com/cgi-bin/autobodypartswholesale/F160912.html 21.5" wide 17" high 4.75" thick at the motor 3.8 liter engines 86 - 95 Taurus / Sable 86 - 94 Lincoln Contenintal 94 - 97 Thunderbird Summit sells two different temperature Painless Wiring thermostat and relay kits. PRF-30102 200F on/185F off PRF-30103 185F on/170F off Hayden part#3647 Fan switch and relay $40 (Radiator fin type) Go to your local junk yard and pull the radiator from a 77-78 Pontiac Grand Prix. The only diference between this radiator and that out of the Camaro V-6 radiator is that it has brass tanks and fins.. The radiator has to be one out of an F-body it needs to have a core 21" wide (the part with the fins between the tanks). If you can find a V6 full size van that is the same one only with a petcock. 84-86 Camero radiator 1 3/8 thick $14O from Pep Boys. Top hose Dayco #7O651 Bottom hose Dayco #71217 Bottom hose Napa 7579. Trimmed a little Heater Hoses Dayco 80407 - This is a long straight hose with a 90 degree bend at one end. I used one for each hose, with the 90 degree bend at the heater box/valve. Plenty of length to reach the front of the engine. Top hose adapter 1 1/2" X 1 1/4" NAPA #9OO I use the radiator out of a 77-78 Pontiac Grand Prix. These were V-8 cars (400 ci I think)and are identical to the lightweight Camaro radiators. The only difference is that the entire radiator is brass construction, natrually weighing a little more than the Camaro. I retrieved mine from a junk yard for $50 bucks and it was in near perfect condition. Pontiac's are a dime a dozen and finding this radiator should be very easy. It even has an integral AT cooler. I use a 18" flex fan and the shroud of another Pontiac that will fit the radiator. There are two styles, on is deeper and the other is short, but the shroud width is the same. Use the short style. my Z stays nice and cool 69-72 chev PU is the correct moubt for the JTR setup Motor mounts fron Chevrolet $34.75 each -- p/n 3990332 trans mount p/n 475940 for $25.55 JTR's description of putting the spacer on the engine block, then the setback plate, then mount is correct. You're putting the engine over to the right and that would mean the larger spacer would be on the left to move it there. GM Silicone Sealer The part # 12346192. Sells for $8.95 a tube. 280Z TACH INTO A 240Z I would recommend getting rid of your old 240Z tach. Vintage, but not designed well they're inaccurate and start jumping around as they age: Replace it with a 1975-78 280Z tach. Put the new tach in the 240 metal housing, and swap the faceplates to keep the redline accurate. The needle pops off, don't damage it. A drop of rubber cement might be needed to put it back on. Don't use superglue or you'll never get it off again. Connect the tach's sensor lug to the negative terminal on the coil. NOTE: Make sure you reverse the power leads on the back of the tach, compare them before you swap for a reference. The little "loop plug" from the 240 tach should be plugged back into the wiring harness in the dash, otherwise the car won't start. MSD 6a 280-Z tach mod Remove 280z tach from tach housing (280z units are attached to dash differently). While you have the 280z unit exposed, find the medium sized resistor under the tach signal/input feed and jump it w/a small wire using a solder gun (believe resistor was brown w/some stripes...but don't quote me). Install 280z unit into 240z housing. 80950-E4100 Chrome cap for 70-73 door pull Nuteral safty switch for a 70-78 Z automatic the wires are black with a yellow tracer and the reverse lights are red with a blue tracer. Speedo cable for GM to Autometer Pioneer Inc Auto Products # CA-3OO2 Exaust Duplicolor Hi Temp paint with ceramic Brute Force 1/2 shaft U-joints (solid no zerks) Autozone for about $12 each TH350 2.52 1.52 1.00 Gearing Angle finder for drive lines & U-joints JEGS PN 247 5O2O $23.99 Early 26OZ Front bumper outer suports (Rubber) 6267O-N36OO Right Side 62671-N36OO Left Side Spring lock for brake hoses 462O6-18OOO Brake upgrade 84 Non Turbo rotors on 7O-71 hub (W 1/2 Moon cutout) 28OZX caliper bracket and Calipers 79-81 Master Cylinder With 2+2 Booster Bendix 11837, Advance SKU PA19600107 for $105 79-81ZX master cylinder the Front circuit is next to the booster The rod from the booster to the ZX MC needs to be lenghthened 81 Master Cylinder for sure 82-83 has different bolt pattern 12" long hard lines with 10mmx1mm fittings, pre-flared. bend these around to connect the hose and caliper. (Toyota Calipers) S metal lines for front 70-78 Z calipers 41230 -E8710 LH 41220 -E8710 RH Metric to SAE brake adapters Autozone are P/N 27851. Take out your master cylinder bleeder kit, don’t have one? Use two pieces of clear hose about 6" long and the smallest diameter that will fit over the bleeder screws. (Home Depot sells 1O’ sections cheap, buy one of each size.) Now loop each short hose back into it’s own reserve bottle with the end below the fluid level. Open both front and rear bleeder screws and slowly pump the pedal to bleed the master and fill these loops with fluid. Don’t push too quickly or you will aerate the fluid. Let it sit for a few minutes then do this again, this allows any bubbles to gather together so they come out easier. We’re doing good, lets start bleeding out the system. Close the rear bleed screw on the master, but leave the front open. This will allow pressure to bleed the rear circuit but leaving the front open will prevent the pressure differential switch and proportioning valve from messing with you. Normally when you are bleeding the rear circuit the front circuit will be fighting you and you will not get a full pedal travel while bleeding. Remember to keep the reserve bottles full while bleeding, if they go dry then you will have to start over and re-bleed the master. So bleed the both rears and then swap the master bleeders. This time close the front bleeder and open the rear bleeder. This will prevent the rear circuit from building pressure while you bleed the front cylinders. Now bleed both front cylinders. I usually go overboard and flush everything too much, I use 24-36 Oz of fluid whenever I do this. Don’t forget your clutch circuit while you have out the right tools and your hands are already covered in fluid. Remember that for every time you pump the brake, you pump the clutch 3-4 times! That fluid gets dirty too. U can tell what series your car is by your VIN...HLS30-00501 up through HLS30-21001 was the Series I. Also, if you have the rear hatch vents, then you have a Series I. And another, look at your speedometer, if it starts at 20mph its a Series I. http://zhome.com/History/New71Late.htm that will tell you the differences Timing Chain tool From my "How to rebuild" book the block needs to be approx.1/2" thick, 1"wide and 7" long. I would taper it to 3/4" wide at the bottom. Also, drill a hole in the top so you can attach a wire to help in removal Any hard wood will work fine. Brake line to pressure differential warning light switch" was just perfect in length. Part #: 46241-E4601 List: $4.64 1Omm x 1.OOmm inverted flare Metalmaster brake pads from Schucks 35O/35O cam profile .45O int .46O exh 224 dur@.05O int & exh hp= torque x rpm/5252 so..... 400 ft lbs at 3000rpm=228hp 400 ft lbs at 5000rpm=380hp 5552 SE Jenne Rd 9723O 666-6O11 SWAY BAR for 74Z has offset between mounts Sway bar has the offset on the end is up Sway bar bracket bolts go to front nitch in bushing goes to rear washer for link is on bottom left side washer for link is on top right side Roll bar rates are in pounds per inch of deflection, and are based on stock antiroll bar shapes both front and rear. Front, 16mm 75lb per inch, 18mm 120lb per inch, 20mm 183lb per inch 21mm 223lb per inch, 22mm 268lb per inch, 23mm 321lb per inch 1" 447lb per inch, 1 1/8" 717lb per inch REAR 20mm 86lb per inch, 21mm 105lb per inch, 7/8" 139lb per inch 1" 211lb per inch Tighten the transverse link inner bolt and outer self-lock nut after installing wheels and placing the vehicle on ground under the standard load. standard load = total weight of two riders weighing 150 lbs (68 kg) each. 115 ft. lbs for the inners...phew, just broke a sweat thinking 'bout that RedLine Water wetter comes from PEP BOYS (Or calgon type stuff anti spotting) Radiater additive (30% anti freeze maximum for best cooling) LPS precision clean (Water Based cleaner) Panel adhesive for patching rust holes Trans Medic for auto tranny (good stuff) Closed Cell" used in body shops around the world and the cheaper open cell. Open cell will attract and hold moisture and cause more corrosion) than it's worth. There are two types of front crossmembers on the early Z cars, the 1970-73 one and the 1974-78 version. The later one was improved over the early one with two subtle changes: The steering rack mounts were reinforced with an additional plate on the bottom and they were also triangulated with a side brace. The two front crossmembers types are fully interchangeable. The steering rack also changed starting in early 1974. The steering ratio changed from 15.8 to 18.0, the rack housing material went from aluminum to cast iron, the pinion bearing went from a ball bearing and bushing combination to two separate ball bearings to reduce friction. The rack bushings were made wider and the inside diameter of the bushings increased sightly. The Zerk type grease fittings were no longer used and finally the steering rack boots were attached with a screw clamp instead of a rubber snap ring. The early and later steering racks are also interchangeable provided you use the corresponding bushings. Both the front crossmember and the steering were changed in 1974 (along with numerous other changes) because of the introduction of the heavier 2+2 260Z 82 28OZX turbo Travis blackop@ptld.uswest.net 36O-91O-48OO 71 240Z V8 Keaton Gilley (5O3) 657-5117 works at Metals USA Factory foglight switch is below the 4 way flasher switch the wires are by the horns on the core support the lights go under the bumper. Holley carb power valve has to be 2# below vacuume @ idle for a automatic can be closer for a stick. No 2 stage valves. jet the secondary side for MPH, not ET in 1/4 mi. adjust pump shot and squirters for best 60 ft. Fuel Cell size generally needs to stay within the following dimensions for a flush fit and to get the tank to fit in the rear of the 240Z allowing room for a mounting frame. Summit lists a 20 gallon that is 24x20x10 (sum-290215-S). Width (side to side) - 28" Length (front to back) - 22" Depth - 12" TV Cable stuff Go to www.sonnax.com, and use the search function to find part # AS2-02K "Throttle Valve Corrector for Holley Carb". Cost around $30 delivered. Electric water pumps $25O ea Aerospace Components waterpump www.aerospacecomponents.com CSI Electric Waterpump Meziere Electric Waterpump Isuzu Impulse door seals are suppose to work on the Z' doors 7OOR4 Lockup Modifications http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=000799 The check ball lock-up mod is VERY simple get a check ball from and AOD unit and place it under the lock-up solinoid and remove the plug! The best part of this is you get lock-up on top of 2nd gear! this will blow you away. Where to find a TH200-4R: '84-'88 Chevy Monte Carlo '84-'87 Chevy Malibu '86-'90 Chevy Impala '83-'88 Olds Cutlass '81-'90 Olds 88 or 98 '84-'87 Pontiac Grand Prix '83-'87 Buick Regal The TH200-4R is the same size as a TH350 but the rear mount is located approx 6 1/2" further back (same distance as the TH400). Both the TH350 and TH200-4R use the same flexplate and a 27 spline output shaft. Ratios for the TH200-4R are 2.74 1.57 1.00 and .67 Ratios for the TH700-4R are 3.06 1.62 1.00 and .70 Ratios for the TH350 2.52 1.52 1.00 Piston To Cylinder Wall Clearances: 1)Chevy's Cast Alluminum a)Street Use: .0015-.0025" 2)Chevy's Forged a)Street Use: .004-.006" b)Competition Use: .0055-.0065" 3)Chevy's Hypereutectic a)Street Use: .0015-.0020" 4)TRW's Hypereutectic a)Street Use: .0015-.0020" 5)TRW's Forged a)Street Use: .003-.0055" b)Competition Use: .0055-.0065" The Ring Gap: 1) Top Ring: .004" for every Cylinder Diameter Inch 2) 2nd Ring: .003" for every Cylinder Diameter Inch 3) Oil Rings: Low Tension -vs- High Tension. Low tension is for Drag Racing while High Tension is for Street usage and Auto Cross. THE LT1 engines to look for are the 1994-96 version because the opti distributor is quit a bit better designed Rust repair panel for the area below the hatch and above the tail lights. I have read this is a common area for rust 999M1-M0000 and the price is around $79.00. Toyota HYBRID emblem Part# 75443-47010 List for $28.52, cost $18.54 DATSUN 24O Z28 71 35OZ 71 57OZ V8-24OZ 1 FAST Z 1 MEAN Z 1 BAD Z Datsun Dude is: Andy Russell Phone: 480-217-7322 e-Mail: z@datsundude.com J&L 1-8OO-521-952O $7-$8.5O www.jlindusterial.com If you insist on using sand, you want the #30 screened sand that can be found at most Home Depots. The grains are of a consistent size and won't clog the nozzle. I think it's also known as swimming pool filter sand at your local pool supply store but I need to verify. front strut brace for the 92 honda civic works on my 76 280z.it fits from left to right DOM or ERW mild steel tubing 1/2 to 3/4" diameter and .095 (1/2") or .080 (3/4") wall thickness I went and buy front strutbar for 94-96 honda civic Here is the part no. I have on my receipt 6-88278-65201 , install it in my 72' 240 it fit and look nice.It only cost me $ 40 .Well you have to drill one extra hole on each side to fit the strut tower. I got this at pep-boys . This is APC product in polish alum. I also got one for the rear too.But can't remember from which car I belive is from toyota corolla don't know what year. This look really great for the $$$.Let me hear it from the fans out there. Thank you. Type 1: Light rust, where the flat bright orange color is just beginning to form and the metal hasn't yet been etched. Type 2: Darker Orange, almost brown, where the metal has been etched and shows pitting. Type 3: Brown to dark brown. Metal has begun to flake, and chips may be popping off but not yet rusted through. Type 4: Dark Brown, some almost black. Rust through. Lots of chips, flaking and general lack of strength in the metal but still holding together. Type 5: Dark Brown, Black. Metal has little strength, easily punctured, crumbled. Barely holding together, disintegrates if disturbed. Torque Converter Info http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf90054.htm http://www.circledspecialties.com/convertoroperation.html http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/torque_converters_explained.htm http://home.earthlink.net/~micfly/TC.htm http://www.c4vettes.com/tcc.htm http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/converters.html http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/psp/Twisting.html http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission.htm http://www.theherd.com/articles/torque.html http://www.autotransinc.com/stall.htm http://www.converter.cc/technical_discussion.htm http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims.htm http://www.nastyz28.com/transid.html http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/length.html http://www.wilcap.com/webdoc8.htm http://www.prestage.com/carmath/dynochart.asp